Pressure washing cleans with force. Soft washing cleans with chemistry at garden-hose pressure. The dividing line is simple: force belongs on concrete, brick, and flatwork. Anything with a lap joint, a seam, or paint on it needs a soft wash. Put pressure on siding and the damage often lands inside the wall, months later.
Pressure washing and soft washing are not two brands of the same service. Pressure washing removes material with force, roughly 2,000 to 4,000 PSI through a narrow fan, and that force is what does the cleaning. Soft washing runs water at about garden-hose pressure, under 500 PSI at the tip, and lets a cleaning solution work over a dwell time of several minutes before a low-pressure rinse. The rule that covers most houses: pressure belongs on flatwork and masonry, chemistry belongs on anything with a seam, a lap joint, or paint. Concrete does not care about 3,000 PSI. Vinyl siding cares a great deal, because vinyl is not a sealed surface, it is a shingled one, hung in overlapping courses built to shed water downward. Anything that drives water upward and behind those courses is working against how the wall was designed.
The damage people picture is cosmetic, and cosmetic is the mild version. A narrow tip held too close gouges cedar and furs the grain. Old vinyl that has chalked in the sun cleans unevenly under pressure, because the oxidized layer strips in patches and leaves a blotched wall that looks worse than the dirt did. Stucco loses its finish coat. On EIFS, which is a thin synthetic coat over foam board, a careless pass punches straight through to the foam. Those you notice the same day. The expensive failure is quieter. Water forced up under a lap joint, past a window flange, or into a soffit vent lands inside the wall assembly, on sheathing and insulation that were never meant to get wet and have no path to dry out. It surfaces eight months later as a musty smell, a stained ceiling corner, or mold behind drywall, and by then nobody connects it to the wash.
Takes pressure: concrete driveways, sidewalks, patios, and pool decks, ideally with a rotating surface cleaner rather than a wand so you do not leave zebra striping. Unpainted brick and block in sound condition, though crumbling mortar will not survive it. Steel, stone retaining walls, dumpster pads, commercial flatwork. Needs a soft wash: vinyl, aluminum, wood, cedar shake, LP and composite siding, fiber cement, stucco, EIFS, painted anything, soffits, fascia, gutter exteriors, and screens. Leave to a specialist: asphalt shingle roofs, where pressure strips the granules that are the shingle's UV protection, and most manufacturers void the warranty over it. Judgment calls: pavers, where pressure blows out the joint sand you then have to replace, and older wood decks, which can take low pressure and a wide tip in a careful hand. When you are unsure, the test that works is whether the surface has a seam water could get behind.
The green and black film on a north-facing wall is not dirt. It is living, mostly algae with some mildew, and it has a root structure sitting below the layer you can see. Pressure removes the visible growth and leaves the roots, which is why a pressure-washed wall often looks clean for six weeks and then hazes back over while the sunny side stays fine. A soft wash solution kills the organism instead of blasting off its top layer, so the wall holds clean substantially longer from the same visit. That is the part rarely mentioned when two prices are sitting side by side: on siding, the higher-pressure option is both the riskier one and the shorter-lived one. No tradeoff is being made. Pressure on a house is not a stronger clean, it is a worse clean delivered harder.
These work on any company, including this one. One: what pressure will be at the surface, not at the pump? A real answer names a range and a tip size. Two: what is the plan for stucco or EIFS, and does the estimator know the difference? Three: will they run a test patch on an inconspicuous wall first? Four: how do plants get handled, pre-wet and rinsed after, or ignored? Five: what is the dwell time before rinse, since a solution sprayed and immediately blasted off never got to work? Six: will they email a certificate of insurance? Add one more if the house predates 1978, because disturbing lead paint is a regulated issue and a contractor who has never heard of it should not be washing your painted wood. Vague answers on pressure and dwell time are the two that most reliably precede damage.
Reflekt Window Cleaning runs both services, which is the only reason this page can be even-handed. House washing is soft wash at $0.18 per square foot. Pressure washing is $0.20 per square foot and goes on driveways, patios, sidewalks, and flatwork. Selling both means there is nothing to gain by aiming the wrong one at your siding. Where Reflekt is behind: founded in April 2025 by Hunter Stevens and Ethan Seusy, so several valley companies have years on us and a much longer review history. We hold 4.9 stars across 115+ Google reviews, fully insured and locally owned. Where to call someone else: Reflekt does not clean roofs, so an algae-streaked asphalt roof needs a roof cleaning specialist. And a 200 square foot patio is a rental machine and one afternoon if you own a hose. For siding, flatwork, gutters, and windows across the valley, call (208) 453-6760.
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Still wondering about something? Call or text us at (208) 453-6760.
It can, in two ways. High pressure on chalked, sun-aged vinyl strips the oxidized layer unevenly and leaves a blotched wall. More seriously, vinyl hangs in overlapping courses meant to shed water downward, so pressure aimed upward drives water behind the panels into sheathing and insulation. That damage stays hidden until it shows up as a musty smell or a stain months later.
Under about 500 PSI at the tip, which is soft washing, not pressure washing. The number on the machine matters less than distance, tip angle, and where the spray is aimed. A wide tip held three feet back delivers far less force at the wall than the gauge suggests. Any operator who answers this question with only a pump number has not thought about the surface.
Neither should see real pressure. Traditional stucco loses its finish coat and develops chips around cracks. EIFS is worse, because it is a thin synthetic coat over foam board, and a close pass can punch through to the foam and let water into the system. Both clean fine with a soft wash. Ask any estimator which one your house has before they quote it.
The standard soft wash mix is a dilute cleaning solution with a surfactant that helps it cling and dwell, and the dilution is the whole craft. Too weak and the algae survives. Too strong and you risk plants and finishes. The solution kills the growth, then a low-pressure rinse carries it off. Dwell time matters as much as mix, which is why a rushed wash underperforms.
Not when handled properly. Plants get soaked with plain water before the wash so foliage cannot absorb much solution, then rinsed thoroughly afterward. Problems come from skipping either step, especially in July heat when the pre-wet dries before the crew gets to that wall. Ask directly how plants are protected. A specific answer about pre-wetting and rinsing tells you they have done this before.
Usually slightly less per square foot, because it uses less equipment time. At Reflekt, house washing runs $0.18 per square foot soft-wash and pressure washing runs $0.20 per square foot. So price is not the reason anyone puts high pressure on siding. It is faster on concrete, which is the surface it belongs on, and speed is the only advantage it holds.
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