Old Town Kuna is the one part of town with no HOA running the sprinklers. Every yard on the original grid is its own irrigation system, installed by whichever owner in whichever decade, and the glass shows it — two houses on the same block can be forty years apart in how badly the windows are etched.
In the subdivisions off Ten Mile and Swan Falls, a builder put in one irrigation design for the whole phase and an HOA runs the common strips on a timer. When those heads are aimed wrong, a whole street gets the same stain in the same spot. Old Town Kuna has none of that. Systems here were retrofitted one lot at a time — some are 1970s brass impact heads on a hose bib, some are 1990s add-ons run off a single zone valve, some are modern rotors a recent owner put in. That means we quote these houses one at a time. We have pulled up to two Townsite homes four doors apart where one had clean glass and the other had ten years of mineral baked into the front elevation, purely because of where one head was pointed.
What comes out of the head matters as much as where it points. Untreated surface water off the Indian Creek ditch system carries suspended silt along with the minerals, so it leaves a gritty gray film layered over the calcium — it looks worse than it is, and a good bit of it is sitting on top of the glass, not in it. Older Townsite properties still on a domestic well tend to have the harder deposits, and if there is iron in the water you get an orange-brown cast that is a separate problem from calcium and does not respond to the same treatment. City-water overspray is the mildest of the three. We ask what feeds your sprinklers before we quote, because the answer changes both the method and the price.
The original Kuna plat put houses close to the front lot line with narrow side yards, and that geometry decides everything. A head set to cover a short front lawn on a 1940s lot is usually throwing across the house, not away from it, so the street-facing elevation and the low basement or crawlspace windows in the three-to-six-foot band take the worst of it. Side yards that are only ten or twelve feet wide give a head nowhere to throw except at the neighbor's siding or your own. And the damage sets fastest where overspray meets fast drying — south and west glass watered in afternoon heat flash-dries the droplet and leaves the mineral behind. North-side glass in the same yard is often fine.
Here is the test you can run yourself before you call anyone. Wet the stained pane with a hose or a wet rag and look at it while it is still wet. If the cloudiness disappears and comes back as it dries, the mineral is sitting on the surface and it will come off. If the haze is still visible while the glass is soaking wet, the deposit has etched into the glass itself, and no cleaner or polish restores it fully — the honest answer at that point is partial improvement or replacement. We would rather tell you that in the driveway than take your money and hand you back glass that still looks bad. Severity is why this service is quoted per window instead of flat-rate.
The Townsite housing stock adds steps a newer house doesn't have. Aluminum storm windows trap overspray between the storm and the primary sash where it can never dry, so the haze is on an inside face we have to pull the storm to reach. Original wavy glass gets a lighter hand — aggressive polishing can distort old glass, and we will stop short rather than push it. Worth being clear on one thing: our 100% deionized water is what keeps new spotting from forming after we finish. It does not dissolve deposits that are already there. That is a separate restoration step, quoted by severity, and it is included on the Monthly membership. No contract, 7-Day Rain Guarantee, same-day and next-day slots.
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Almost always head placement, not water. Old Town has no HOA-run system, so your sprinklers and theirs were installed decades apart by different owners and aimed differently. One head throwing four feet of arc across your front elevation for ten years will etch glass that a neighbor's properly set head never touches. We look at the spray pattern, not just the stain.
Depends whether the mineral is on the glass or in it. Wet the pane and look at it while wet — if the haze vanishes, we can remove it. If it stays visible under water, the glass is etched and restoration gets you partial improvement at best. We give you that verdict on site before any work starts, and we will not charge you to chase a stain that isn't coming out.
Different, mostly. Untreated surface water carries silt along with minerals, so it leaves a gray gritty film that looks alarming but often sits on the surface and cleans off well. The harder cases we see in the Townsite are on older domestic wells, where the mineral load is higher and iron can add an orange-brown cast that needs a different treatment than calcium.
It stops the damage from getting worse, which is the most important thing, but it does not remove what is already on the glass. Aim the heads down and inward first — most Old Town yards can be fixed with a wrench and ten minutes. Then get the existing deposits removed once. That order saves you from paying for restoration twice.
For the hazing between the storm and the sash, yes — that surface can't be reached any other way, and overspray that gets in there never dries out. We pull them carefully on old wood frames and tell you first if a storm looks like it will not come out cleanly. If a frame is seized or the fasteners are corroded, we leave it alone rather than break it.
It is quoted by severity rather than flat-rate, because a light three-month film and ten years of baked-on mineral are different amounts of work on the same size window. We walk the elevations, check which panes are surface versus etched, and give you the number before starting. It is included on the Monthly membership. Call (208) 453-6760.
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