Dark streaking and patchy discoloration on brick almost always traces back to a specific place water is going that it should not. The staining is a map, and reading it is more useful than cleaning it, because two brick walls that look similarly stained can need completely different fixes.
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A vertical streak below a window sill means water is running off the sill rather than dripping clear at a drip edge. A dark band near grade means splash-back off the ground. A wide stain below a gutter joint means the gutter leaks there. Patchy darkness across one whole elevation usually just means that wall stays wet longest, typically a north or heavily shaded face. Each pattern has a different fix, and only the last one is solved by cleaning alone.
Most staining is water carrying dirt or algae down the face from an external source. A smaller share is different: some brick units contain trace iron or manganese within the clay body itself, and under certain firing and weathering conditions those metals migrate to the surface as a rust-brown or dark streak that starts from within the brick, not from anything running down it. This is a documented brick-industry defect rather than a cleaning failure, and it does not respond to a wash the way an external water stain does. If a stain seems to radiate from inside individual bricks rather than following a runoff path, that is worth a mason's opinion before paying for repeated cleaning attempts.
Mortar joints are more porous and considerably softer than the brick faces around them. Pressure washing brickwork erodes the joints preferentially, and once mortar is eroded the wall takes on more water through the wider gaps, which makes future staining and efflorescence worse rather than better. On older lime mortar, common in homes built before modern portland-cement mixes became standard, the erosion happens fast and is essentially irreversible without repointing.
Green and black on brick is usually organic growth and responds to soft washing. White bloom is efflorescence, soluble salts carried out from inside the wall by moisture, which is a separate problem with its own cause. Orange or rust-brown can be either iron migrating from within the brick itself or corrosion from a metal component above, such as a rusting lintel or flashing. Treating all three the same way, usually by scrubbing harder, is how people get poor results and damaged mortar without ever addressing the actual source.
Cleaning a stain fed by an active water path buys one season at most. Extending a downspout, correcting a sill drip edge, or repairing a gutter joint changes the outcome permanently, and it is usually cheaper over a few years than repeated cleaning of the same wall. Cleaning is the right first step only after the water source has been identified and, where possible, corrected.
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Usually a specific water path: a sill shedding water onto the wall below it, a leaking gutter joint, or splash-back near grade. The location and shape of the stain point to the source.
Not safely. Pressure erodes the softer mortar joints preferentially, and eroded joints let in more water, which makes staining and efflorescence worse afterward.
Sometimes. Certain brick units contain trace iron or manganese that migrates to the surface as a rust or dark streak from within, independent of any external water source. That does not respond to ordinary cleaning.
Efflorescence, which is mineral salt carried out from inside the wall by moisture, a different mechanism from the staining caused by an external water path.
Only if the water source is addressed. Otherwise the same stain returns within a season or two, sometimes worse because pressure has opened the mortar joints.
$0.18 per square foot using a soft-wash method, which is the appropriate approach for masonry and does not erode the mortar joints.
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