The garage door is usually the largest single surface facing the street and the one nobody cleans. It also sits closest to the driveway, which means it takes road film, exhaust residue and driveway splash that the rest of the house never sees.
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Vehicle exhaust condensate and fine tire rubber leave a thin oily film on anything near a driveway, and that film bonds to the door rather than sitting loosely on it. Rain runs over an oily surface rather than lifting it, which is why a garage door can look dingy after a wet week while the siding above it looks fine. A freshly sealcoated driveway adds to this directly: fresh sealer can splash or track onto the lower panels in the first weeks after it is applied, and that residue behaves the same way, resisting plain water.
Doors are shielded at the top by the header and exposed at the bottom to splash, so the lower panels always soil faster and more heavily than the top. Add direct sun exposure on a south or west-facing door and the painted finish oxidizes unevenly on top of the soiling, which produces a banded, patchy look that people often mistake for a manufacturing defect rather than two separate processes stacking on the same door.
Steel and aluminum garage doors carry a painted finish that oxidizes under UV the same way vinyl siding does, breaking down at the surface into a chalky layer. Washing removes the road film and the loose chalk and makes the door look considerably better. It will not restore color to a finish that has already faded and oxidized, because that pigment loss is happening inside the paint itself, not sitting on top of it. At that point repainting the door is the only way to change the color back, and it is worth knowing that going in rather than paying for repeated washes expecting a different result.
Many doors have a row of glass set into the upper panel, often with decorative inserts. Those take the same road film and are usually skipped by a window service because they are technically part of the door rather than a house window. They are worth including explicitly when booking rather than assuming they are covered by default.
Garage doors are thin steel or aluminum panels, and high pressure can dent them or force water into the panel seams and the door's insulation, where it stays trapped. There is also a mechanical risk specific to this job that does not apply to siding: a hose or pressure wand aimed at the bottom weather seal can force water past it and into the garage floor, and spraying directly at the opener's photo-eye sensors near the base of the track can temporarily disable the door's safety reversal. Low pressure with the right cleaner, aimed away from the seals and sensors, avoids all of it.
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Road film from exhaust and tire residue is oily rather than dusty, so water runs over it instead of lifting it. Fresh driveway sealcoat splash behaves the same way.
They take driveway splash directly while the top is shielded by the header, so soiling and, over time, uneven sun fading build from the bottom up.
No, if the finish has already oxidized. Washing removes road film and loose chalk, but pigment lost to UV breakdown inside the paint cannot be washed back in. Repainting is the only fix for that.
Not automatically. Mention them when booking, since they are technically part of the door and usually treated separately from house windows.
It should not be. Thin steel panels dent under pressure, and it can force water into the seams and insulation, or past the bottom seal into the garage.
It is handled with exterior washing at $0.18 per square foot soft-wash, aimed away from the bottom seal and the opener's photo-eye sensors.
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